IDENTIFY WINTER BURN ON EVERGREENS
Generally, the trees grown on residential properties in and around Indianapolis are hardy enough to survive a typical Indiana winter. But occasionally, we have a winter with a few weeks of weather that’s much colder than our average temperatures. Colder or snowier than average weather can cause some winter damage to trees. We think of evergreens as tough and hardy, but they can be vulnerable to winter damage, too.
After a really cold winter, some trees and shrubs may experience a problem known as winter kill or winter burn. But cold weather is not the only thing that can cause winter burn on evergreen trees.
Newly planted trees that didn’t receive adequate watering in their first year or two may also experience winter burn. When new trees are planted, it’s essential to keep up with a regular watering schedule for the first 2-3 years to establish a robust root system. If trees aren’t watered enough in the first 2-3 years after planting, they will be more susceptible to winter burn.
HOW TO IDENTIFY WINTER BURN
Winter burn or winter kill looks pretty similar across most evergreens, whether they’re broadleaf or needled. Winter burn looks like:
Red or brown needles or leaves.
Needles, leaves, and twigs feel dry and brittle.
Needles and leaves fall off easily.
HOW TO PREVENT WINTER BURN ON EVERGREENS
You can prevent winter burn on your trees and shrubs by making sure they get watered on a regular schedule in their first few years of life, and especially giving them one to three deep waterings in fall just before things freeze up. You can also protect them through the winter with an anti-desiccant spray that will help them retain moisture, and you can wrap young or delicate evergreens with burlap for the winter. Adding a good layer of mulch over the root area, but not piled up against the trunk, will also help protect your evergreens.
HOW TO DEAL WITH WINTER BURN
You may already be seeing signs of winter burn on your trees and shrubs, but don’t be tempted to head out with a pruner or an ax just yet. Plants are surprisingly resilient, and you might be surprised how much new growth your tree or shrub will put out, despite having some winter burn.
Be patient. Watch your plant carefully through the spring. Don’t start pruning until your evergreen is actively producing new growth.
Do the bend or snap test for small twigs once you’re sure your tree or shrub is producing new growth elsewhere. Try to bend small twigs. If the twigs flex and bend, there is still life in them, and you don’t need to cut them off. If they snap easily, the limb is dead. You can prune it back a little bit at a time until you hit softer and more flexible wood with some green in the middle.
Do the scratch test on larger limbs. Scrape back a tiny section of bark. If you see green, it’s alive. If there’s no green, it’s dead. Trim it back, a little bit at a time, until you hit green.
Once your tree or shrub is actively producing new growth, you can start to prune out areas that are completely dead. Don’t lop off a whole branch unless you’ve done the scratch test near the base of the limb. Take it back a little at a time until you see evidence of life in the stem or are getting close to the trunk.
Unfortunately, sometimes winter burn will kill an entire evergreen. Usually, this happens if the tree or shrub did not get adequate water in its first year or two. In this case, the only option is to dig out and replace it with a new tree or shrub. If you’re not sure what to do about winter kill on your trees, have a chat with our experts at the garden center. Bring some pictures of the winter burn on your tree, and we can help you figure out the best solution for you.
